Natural Pet Remedies for Cats

For P-Chic in Portland. OR for feline infectious anemia--Please give foodgrade diatomaceous earth (DE) in ACV-dampened food, starting with 1 tsp. DE once a day, increasing gradually to 1--2 tsps. 2 X/day. DE absorbs and eliminates toxins from body, and both ACV and DE are said to help anemia. Check health food store or internet for DE, which is inexpensive. Also give gently melted coconut oil in food, starting with 1 tsp. Once a day, increasing gradually to 1--2 tsps. 2 X/day. Best wishes for kitty.

I think to give DE internally, at such high dosages, to any small animal such as a cat, especially to a sick kitten, may be unsafe for them.

At one site there is a small chart that has amounts suggested by weight and maturity of the cat. It suggests only a 1/2 teaspoon for a kitten up to 6-1/2 pounds (who are already eating solid food).

Even then, I would err on the side of safety and at least start with a much smaller amount. Then watch the kitty for any adverse reactions.

I have successfully used food grade DE (diatomaceous earth) mixed equally with Borax, to get rid of fleas in the environment. (both inside the house and outside the perimeter of the house, NOT for a pet to eat).

I applied it (50/50 mix of Borax and DE), on the carpets/rugs, upholstered furniture, mattresses and bedding, etc, but only one room at a time (kept the pets out of the room being treated), Then after a day, vacuumed it up. Be aware that it may clog your vacuum cleaner and I suggest using a shop vac if you can.

At the same time, I sprinkled it outside around the edge where the ground meets the house, the window sills (inside and out), the ground from the edge of the house to the bushes, etc. You may need to use a dust mask and safety goggles to mix and apply it since it's a dusty combination.

Since then, no more fleas at all! (3 years so far).

Our cats didn't have any fleas, etc when we left our home to move, but got them at the motel we stayed at (that allowed pets), then the Vet at our new location suggested that the local feral cats (who strut by our yard and tease our kitties on their screened-in lanai) probably hang out under the bushes next to the screen and leave fleas too.

You may have to reapply it outside at some point due to rain.

Hey Leonard!

Please visit EC's FIP page and start reading, and do not forget to scroll down - LOT's of ideas for you:

https://www.earthclinic.com/pets/feline-infectious-peritonitis.html

Hi please help me my 6 month kitty was diagnosed with wet FIP last week.. How is your cat doing now?

Thought I should post to this. I had a kitten with this and later needed to put her down. She was very ill and in great pain. I did have 2 other adult cats at the time whom fell ill similar to sassy (the kitten). I changed their diet to home cooked chicken, beef, pork with rice and bottled water. I also added a vitamin supplement. In addition to the bottled water, I added soymilk and chicken broth so they will get plenty of hydration. They recovered.

Hi.. To Catlover in Vancouver.... I have extensive experience with this awful disease... Or rather with cats who have it. I rescued a very young kitten in late 2001 or early 2 - very thin and covered in fleas. I took her to the vet before introducing her to the household (3 older cats) and had her tested, immunized, etc for "everything", and of course, cleaned her up, etc. Well, it turns out that she has FIP, and she gave it to the other 3 cats almost immediately. Long story short, she is still alive and healthy (in remission) - unfortunately the other 3 have passed on, BUT... 2 of the 3 died of causes other than FIP, and they lived to realatively ripe old ages for cats. I don't know if you know any of this stuff already, but I'll put what I know here anyway, and I apologize, but there are some pertinent facts I simply can't remember at this moment... FIP is actually a mutation of a virus (that's what I can't remember... Which virus) that is normal in cats. In other words, they most all carry it. This mutation can occur in two different ways. One is called "wet" form, the other "dry". "Wet" is almost always fatal within a short period of contracting it, but "dry" can be managed. The problem is since it is a mutation of a "normal" virus, at least in my experience, many vets will tell you that "there IS NO TEST" for FIP. Some don't even recognize it as a disease. There IS a test, but it tests for a certain type of cell, and it's expensive.

Now, I don't know if there are other ways of management- I've only recently discovered more Earthly treatments for people... Much less animals, but what my vet did was experimental treatment using a combination of very light but consistent steroid treatment and thyroid support with a managed diet. The most important things I've had to do for her were to 1) manage her diet, to avoid any stress on her digestive system (where the virus is most active). Use very benign food, (we use a prescription food because it contains virtually no irritants), no hard to digest proteins, especially fish of ANY kind, no dyes, etc. If and when she needs additional special dietary care, it's strictly chicken- either baby food, or boiled and mashed that I make for her... And 2) KEEP HER ISOLATED from ANY other cats. This means COMPLETELY isolated. This virus is horribly contagious. It is transferred through the litter box, the food dish, the water dish, if your cat licks you... Etc. The virus is a fairly long-lived virus comparatively, and can even be transferred via your clothing, etc. - (mostly wet form). Dry is less agressive because the cat isn't as sick and thus isn't excreting so much yuck. My cat is 10 or 11 (?), stocky, & healthy with perfect "cattitude". Don't give up. They will sometimes go through periods of sickness... But with literally devout care, they can pull through. I have 4 other cats, all rescues and all "special needs" kitties, and they are all FIP free.

I am not prepared to discontinue her current treatment which has worked so well for so long to experiment with ACV or AC... But if her condition "flares", I will indeed introduce one or both of these things to try to heal her.

I hope this helps or encourages you. There IS hope for FIP kitties.

Hi Stealthpaws, please help me on my kitten persian Bella, she diagnosed with wet form of FIP. But when I talk to the Vet, informed that she is dry form of FIP. I am so confused and I am now so emotional and also my daughter cried a lot. We love her so much as we took her from the petshop. She is so cute. We don't want to lose her totally. Can you help me on this?

FIP. It sounds like your vet knows what they are talking about. I suggest a second opinion.

I had a sick cat who I took to a new vet because I was new in town, LA. He did a blood test and the cat tested positive for FIP. The vet said to think about putting him down. I phoned the store where I had bought a new kitten who had gotten a little sick with sneezing and that had triggered my older bigger cat to get sick. The store gave me the number of the breeder of the kitten. I talked to her and she said that when cats are sick they test positive for a lot of things which they don't necessarily have. She said to go to another vet and gave me some names. A cat magazine said to always check with a breeder when you get to town to find out whom they recommend. They have had enough cats and experiences that they can gage a vet. Very good advice. Don't go by the most popular vet in a newspaper or by a certificate of thanks from a city. I felt very badly for the beautiful beloved pets that were being treated by the first vet who was faking being competent. My cat recovered.

I suggest not buying animals from a store. It is better to buy from a breeder who knows what they are doing, or rescue an animal from a shelter or from a rescue organization. Wonderful beautiful animals, cats kittens, dogs puppies, rabbits, chickens and even more exotic pets are being euthanized constantly for the lack of a home.

When you get a new animal, whether you have purchased one or found a stray, keep it separated to find out if it is sick to protect your other animals. Doing that will give you the time to look for the owner if it is a stray, post the neighborhood, take it to a vet who will scan it for free to see if it has a chip that has up to date info. Regarding 50% of chipped animals the owners did not realize that they had to inform the chip people of their name and address. They thought someone else did it. When left to others, invariably there are mistakes, so follow through. Inform the shelter that you found it in case someone is looking for it, and tell them you will keep it at your house. This appears to apply to cats and not dogs. After a certain amount of time, it is yours. Then you can spend the money to have its blood tested by a vet so that you know it is negative on diseases. Don't offer to give it away for free on Craigslist. People can pretend to be good owners when they plan to sell it to a lab for experimentation, and they are good actors and you don't know it. Introduction to other cats in the house is best done slowly, with the animals separated in different rooms by a door, and exchanging socks with the smell of the other on it, so that the scent gets to be familiar.

This may sound unusual but check your cat for signs of an ear infection. If it has one, it will affect balance and coordination. Especially falling to one side and not steady enough to walk. In this case an antibiotic is needed. You can go to a feed store and tell them and they can give you it at a lower cost. Home remedy work to restore ear health and I use a natural product called Walley oil. My cats don't mind it but you have to be gentle because those ears can to sore. Also, with warm water clean the ear and around it. I don't know if clay is a good idea (ingested) I've never seen a cat do that naturally and clay litters can form a lining in the intestine. I wouldn't use it routinely but maybe ok for an emergency. You might have to call someone like at a feedstore or veterinary for assistance. Sometimes they will talk to you about it without a visit.

At healthfood stores there is a product call yeast plus made by twin labs. It is a complete food and I've seen it help a lot of sick animals. For a small cat, (some will eat it on thier own) one tps mixed in water. Use an eye dropper. Watch for signs of improvement. Unless it is a chronic condition it shouldn't be needed all the time. Hope your kitty gets better.

Chlorine Dioxide in a spray bottle. There is a documentary called Universal Antidote I HIGHLY recommend you watch it then you can purchase some CD at kvlab.com costs about 30 bucks but will last you 6 months or more depending on how often you use it. Its for humans and animals but CAUTION it is very powerful and you have to get the right dosage. You can buy the book called MMS Health Recovery Guidebook by Jim Humble. The CD guide book gives you protocols to follow but chapter 15 is solely dedicated to animals. It's a one-to-one ratio when mixing the solution ALWAYS so that's not hard to mess up and easy to remember. It truly works miracles. Good luck.

Unfortunately no. Stomatitis is very painful and the teeth should be removed as soon as possible. The cat will then have to be on steroids and antibiotics afterwards, and from time to time in the future.

Actually, tooth resorption is not the same thing as stomatitis. My kitty, Izzy, has this issue and unfortunately, like stomatitis, the cause is unknown. Although my vet did tell me that his theory for these conditions is the processed food we feed our pets. He just said "it's something in the food. " He prescribed Vitamin C (250 mg of sodium ascorbate plus bioflavanoids per day). I am also trying a protocol of supplements and energy healing basically, with a holistic vet located in Woodland, CA. I adopted Izzy in June 2010, and he's already had 2 teeth pulled in 2011 and 2 more in 2012 due to the resorption issue (very painful unless teeth are removed). He will be getting a wellness check in the next few months, and I will update on this site to to let you know how his mouth looks.. hopefully we won't have to pull any more teeth. Good luck with your kitty. If anybody has any other advice, please let me know!

Hey KC!

You don't state what tests your vet performed to determine there were 'no health issues/nothing wrong with him' so I have to ask: Was semen collected and evaluated?

Next, did any of the queens that failed to produce live kits with your tom subsequently conceive when mated to another tom?

Major infertility problems in toms are caused by disturbances in the production, transport, or storage of sperm; loss of libido; and partial or complete inability to mate or to stimulate ovulation in the female. Most major infertility problems are complex; several factors, singly or in combination, can cause failure to produce offspring.

Infertility can also be related to husbandry problems; if we can assume your cattery is meticulously kept and your boy is getting top nutrition and proper rest between services, and the queens are also kept in top shelf fashion, and are free of infectious causes of infertility such as toxoplasmosis, feline leukemia virus infection, feline infectious peritonitis, and feline viral rhinotracheitis [these may cause abortion, neonatal death, fetal resorption, and apparent infertility] you may need to rule out an STD such as Chlamydia - or a bacteria that behaves almost exactly like it in your stud; this can be tricky to culture and the easiest route might be to simply treat for it rather than attempt to confirm it.

Check it out: http://www.ramesescats.co.uk/health/infertility/

http://www.hdw-inc.com/fertilitymale.htm

Diatomaceous Earth is a fabulous natural treatment and preventative for fleas, ticks, and similar pests. It is death to fleas, and totally harmless to birds and mammals. We use this to treat our cats, with a light dusting on their neck and back, rubbed into their fur, usually once every several weeks during the summer, and more often if we have evidence of a problem. DE is available from farm supply stores (used for poultry), and online natural pet stores, "dirt" cheap. The pet store DE has added herbals to help soothe the skin, if there have already been bites. This (DE) can be sprinkled into the pet bedding, and on carpets ,etc - wherever fleas, ticks, mites, etc. Are hiding. One of our cats is extremely sensitive to fleas, possibly allergic, and this is the only treatment we use. We also used DE to treat a barn swallow nestling totally covered with bird mites (and probably less than an hour from certain death). It's two fellow nestlings had already died, due to the mite infestation. The treated nestling survived and prospered. We dusted the nest and worked DE into the nestling's feathers. The bird mites vacated (or died) the nest instantly and permanently.

Hi: I am very interested in DE. However I am concerned about inhaling it. When I worked as a lifeguard and used DE for pool filters we used special masks. How different is pool grade and food grade in terms of safety in the instance of inhalation. If you are dusting your cat and his area, this will be air born at some point. Have u any idea if this is safe for you or your cat. Thanks, Mary

This reply is to Mary from Regina, Saskchewan regarding fleas.

Make sure you only use food grade Diatomaceous earth to treat your home and your pets. Pets will lick their fur and the food grade is safe to ingest. The pool grade you use is not ingestible. There are only four mines that provide food grade DE. Food grade DE is cheap can be purchased on amazon.com in bags or jars. The food grade can also be used to add a little dusting to their wet food to rid them of internal parasites. I have done lots of research on in recently myself and just purchased a ten pound bag from amazon. You do wear a facemask when applying large amounts of it since you dont want to inhale it.. But you will only be using a little on your pet. If apply it in the house on carpets to kill bugs (lice, fleas, etc) you can apply it with a pest pistol also sold from amazon. Wear the mask when applying large amounts of it.. Then you can open the doors to ventilate. All natural. Do a google search on Food grade Diatomaceous earth benefits. Its great for people too in water to decrease cholesterol, high blood pressure, etc. Good luck.

I used DE on the carpets in a bachelor apartment, and although it ended the flea problem, there was always a thin layer of DE that settled on everything ever-after. I washed the curtains and changed the AC/Heat filter. I wonder the effect of the continual fine dust on anyone who is in the environment. For this reason, I'm not convinced it is safe to use.

My cat is just over a year old and has terrible fleas! I have tried the ointment you put behind shoulders and it seems to not help. Are flea collars to strong? I put one on him but 2 days later I couldn't handle the strong smell! He is an indoor/outdoor cat. He has only had one bath because he had been sprayed from a Tom cat. This experience was a bit crazy. What, or how do I give him this flea bath without getting scratched?

Bathing cats can be an enormous struggle if you haven't had the opportunity to work with the cat from a young age. The most helpful tool I have purchased for bathing older cats is a basic, nylon cat harness with leash. Unfortunately, this really only works if you have a soap holder built into the side of your shower stall. Here are my methods:

1) Put the harness on the cat before you even run the bath water.
2) Fill the bath before you bring the cat into the room. Sometimes the noise of the tap itself can be frightening to Kitty. Remember not to actually FILL the tub, but allow about an inch of water to collect.
3) Attach the leash to the soap dish, leaving just enough room for your cat to be able to sit on all fours in the tub.
4) Bring the cat in, but before you set him in the water, attach the leash to the harness. This will prevent him from scrambling away from you, soaking wet, before you can secure him in the tub.
5) Once the leash is securely attached, set the cat in the tub.

Note: Most cats don't like to sit in standing water. In my case, my kitty would yowl loudly for the duration of the bath and fight me all the way. My remedy was to put a small, plastic stepping stool into the tub for her to sit upon, then used a cup to pour water over her as I washed. With this method, the cat only yowled when I poured water over her.

If you have a detachable shower head, you don't need to fill the tub before bringing in the cat, just start the water and make sure it's at an acceptable temperature first.

Putting the cat on the harness keeps him from hurting you, AND himself. He may try to pull away at first, but if the leash is tied at the correct length, he won't be able to move very far in either direction. And, if he decides to start trying to claw your arms in an attempt to climb out, all you need to do is lean back for a minute, until he calms down.

Any errors in the process, like failure to secure the harness properly, will be evident when the cat escapes and tears you to ribbons for your efforts! Haha

Brilliant! I've had cats for 40 years and bathing, sometimes essential, is always a chore for both me and the cat. Thank you for post. I'm ready next time. Love the part about tying the leash to the the soap holder.

I cared for 2 abandoned kitties on 2 seperate occasions. Both were infested with fleas. First of all I would suggest with all cats begin giving regular baths from the time you get them so they become accustomed to it before they get claws of steal. The two that I did this with I have very few problems bathing, in fact one jumps in the shower with me when I am there. As a kitten I used baby shampoo and a flea comb (or a lice comb for humans) I did it at least daily until they were gone. For people who have not so easy cats to bath---I have the worst--I have learned to prefill the bathtub with water and shampoo. Put your cat in a hardshell pet cage and lower them in. make sure it is warm and goes only to upper chest. They usually will calm down and quit fighting or trying to fight their way out although they still moan. use a hand held shower (low) or pour water on dry areas. If you are treating fleas use the Apple Cider Vinegar mixture. they may fight it but they cant get away. obviously it is a little less effective than a traditional rub down, but soaking got them clean and fleas gone. I dont stress about drying them if it is warm, let them escape and destress. If they are confined in a room, let thm have a few minutes and then see if they will let you approach them to dry off.

Here is how I would do it differently:

I've been including apple cider vinegar in cats diet, which is helping, but am still having the following problems - even with meds from the vet.

This is o.k.

FLEAS - currently on Frontline, ACV dip, and I've flea bombed the house 4 times and vacuum, vacuum, vacuum.

You will never ever get rid of it doing this old method. Try this. One to Two Tablespoon of Tannic acid per Gallon of water. And spray lightly on the carpet or floor. Leave it then vaccum. The tannic acid will denature the eggs and kill them on contact. Follow this with another sprayer, using one tablespoon of sodium perborate per gallon and spray. The sodium perborate will kill all the eggs and mites in case tannic acid does not. don't mix sodium perborate and tannic acid just yet I haven't done experiments on that yet! However, if you take baths with a cat. Always use this. Get 1 tablespoon per 1 liter of water. And wash the ears, and the whole of the cat. DO NOT DRY. The sodium perborate will kill all the eggs. And you will save a ton of money when you finally found out you don't need Frontline at all!

FVR - upper respitory infection that keeps going bacterial and can't shake the viral. Feed cats ACV in soft food and vet put animals on an antibiotic, Clavamox.

Cats seem to like colloidal silver. Perhaps mix that might help too. The best formula to solve the FVR I found is liquid fulvic acid you buy from garden shops, 1 teaspoon per liter of water. Works everytime!

CONJUNCTIVITIS - Cats are on eye drop meds from vet but not getting rid of problem

A weak solution of borax or boric acid (they sell in drugs stores might help. Colloidal silver when sprayed to their eyes seems to work very well.

EAR MITES AND EAR YEAST INFECTIONS - On two ear drop meds from vet for both. The ears are looking better but cats are still trying to scratch way down inside their ears. I've made a wash with ACV, Witch Hazel, Olive Oil and Distilled Water. Is there something else I should be putting in wash to get rid of the problem?

Washing them with sodium perborate should solve the problems. The mix has been mentioned.

Just a question about the reply. Where can I get Tannic Acid? I have looked online and even called stores. One form of the tannic acid I can find is a powder which I am hesitant to buy because of the handeling of it seems a little too much to be around my pets. Scarey!!

There is also some that you can order that is for medicinal perposes. Tannic acid has anti-bacterial, anti-enzymatic and astringent properties. Tannic acid has constringing action upon mucous tissues such as tongue and inside of mouth. The ingestion of tannic acid caused constipation and can be used to treat diarrhoea (in the absence of fever or inflammation). The anti-oxidant and anti-mutagenic properties of tannic acid are beneficial.

However, tannic acid should not be used continuously or in high quantities ad it slows down the absorption of iron and possibly other trace minerals. A study by Afsana K et al entitled Reducing effect of ingesting tannic acid on the absorption of iron, but not of zinc, copper and manganese by rats. published by Bioscience, Biotechnology, and Biochemistry (March 2004) concluded that the usual intake of polyphenols is relatively safe, but that a high intake by supplementation or by dietary habit of tannin affects only the iron level. Tannic acid can also reduce the effectiveness of digestive enzymes.

Also sodium perborate? Is that Borax powder? It is used as a bleaching agent for laundry.

Dear Rachel,

Actually tannic acid is found in tea and more in green teas. The concentration of green teas or ordinary tea contains tannic acid around 1/8 teaspoon per liter of water. So preparing an ordinary tea of one liter will have that same concentration of tannic acid. In certain research studies where the concentration has no effect on healthy cells at all its maximum concentration were around 1/4 teaspoon of tannic acid per one liter of water. However at that concentration it kills microbes and pathogens.

I used tannic acid myself mixed in drinking water at 1/4 per liter of water as a way to remove heavy metals from my body such as the dreaded cadmium and lead. Tannic acid is also a wonderful chelator of the major cause aging - free metal iron, which is a free iron radical known in chemistry as the Fenton Reaction, the primary theory of free radical of aging.

Tannic acid is the major factor of how black inks are made, whenever tannic acid is reacted with any iron salts or iron compounds. Tannic acid in traditional medicine they actually used far more higher dose than those mentioned here to relieved of diarrhea and loose stool. The use of tannic acid in traditional folk medicine has been around for a very long time in the United States.

Athletes used this mixture in foot powder to kill fungus on their feet, so it becomes a drying agent. In fact the 2 tablespoons of tannic acid per gallon on water is relatively too weak to have health effects, except positive ones on removal of cadmium, which is found in lead free gasoline, but is extremely toxic in humans. Parts per billion of cadmium is more then enough to cause serious health effects and may be more toxic then mercury. Cadmium also causes high blood pressure and other problems.

The only effective remedy to remove cadmium I know of in research studies is the tannic acid. So even if people have qualms about the use of tannic acid, then just make a strong green tea in a glass teapot. The problem about this is the cost of green tea is very high, compared to a similar preparation at similar concentrations when preparing tannic acid of same concentration as those of green tea.

Much of the warnings of anything is the extreme uses. You can die from drinking too much water and you can also die from eating too much salt. The key is always moderation.

Ted

I have been using diatomaceous Earth (food Grade) and have completely rid my home and pets of fleas, ticks and any other critters that have an exoskeleton. It is completely harmless to warm bloded animals/people and will also take care of internal parasites as well. Make sure it is food grade. Just google it. It is very inexpensive and will kill fleas and such on contact. You can also dust the pet beds, furniture and such with no worries.

i know that some people say that garlic is poisonous to cats - but my vet disagrees and i have used garlic capsules on ALL my cats for years - and i've had a LOT of cats. it is very easy to just push a couple of capsules (coat them with olive oil) down a kittens throat. this will make fleas not want to live on the cats and may help with other health problems - including worms. start with a couple of small capsules first and later only one a day will work. it must be the smelly kind - de-odorized does not work. also i have put the oil from the capsules in their ears for relief from ear mites and it works well. i would even try the garlic on the ringworm directly. ACV is supposed to help with ringworm too - but you may need to apply the ACV full strength. virgin coconut oil also has similar properties - antifungal.

i would not try tea tree oil on cats - but someone wrote recently about collodial silver working in ear mites. i've never tried it though.

Hi Ted. Just wondering if a mixture of borax and hydrogen peroxide would work instead of the sodium perborate, saw that it was composed of the former two above....would be much cheaper for me as i already have them both... If so, how much of each? thanks

I have a stray that decided to move in, she was pretty wild it took us a year and 1/2 to get her to trust us. she developed terrible ear mite infection, I couldnt hardly stand the smell and a friend suggested using a dishwashing detergent a couple of drops in a small bowel of water. I started out with a very wet rag to loosen the build up, would do this 1X per day until I could see into the ear again. then I used an old rx bottle and "concentrated" the solution and used an 1cc dropper squirted into the ear rubbed the ear to work it around. used the concentrated solution about 3 to 4 days, she has been fine since then.

Sprinkle Diatomaceous Earth on carpets & in kitty bedding, just a light even dusting. Also may be used safely directly on cats & kittens. Comb out dead fleas next day, and vacuum carpets. It is best to buy food grade diatomaceous earth.

As far as fleas go, diatamateous earth (food grade) works for me. We have for dogs, a cat and a ferret. You can put it on the animal but sometimes drys their skin. Just sprinkle DE in your carpet, on your tile and under the bed and in pretty areas. The DE gets on the evidently exoskeleton of the flea and slices it. Be careful with ferrets because of their respiratory issues. A dab of tea tree oil at the nap of the neck works well as fleas don't like the smell.

To Reader from Bloomington, Mn. I rescued a kitten that weighed 1 & 1/2lbs. And was covered with ringworm, after spending $300 and was not cured & I got it, I mixed 1 part bleach to 10 parts of water & tried it on myself for 3 days to try for skin irritation before I tried it on my kitten. Oh, very important, I bought a blacklight to spot the affected areas as they will glow under the light. I had no irritation and it killed the ringworm on the spot. I tried it on kitty with the same results. I did rub vitamin e oil and allow on the area just in case. It worked immediately with no adverse reaction.

Food grade diatomaceous earth.

Food grade Diatomaceous Earth Is the best remedy for killing any insects! Fleas, ticks, bedbugs, cockroaches, spiders! Also great against mange! And when the animal licks it off, it kills internals parasites! Wonderful stuff! Buy in any feed store or online!

Hey Nicholson!

I am sorry to hear about your kitty. If this were my cat I would call the vet right back and ask to come back right away. I suspect they were trying to give you some time to come to terms with your cat's terminal condition by asking you to come back on Monday, but clearly YOU know your cat best and if you think its Time, then it's Time - and I would not wait any longer if I could at all avoid it.

{{{{{{{{Nicholson}}}}}}}}}

You could try nettle tea which is a safe, natural diuretic. Or use the entire plant dandelion, make a tea. Both have loads of vitamins and she may pee a lot without loosing nutrients in her urine. God bless her.

Namaste, Om

Fluid retention in the stomach area is frequently the fluid thrown off from cancer cells. In humans you begin to look pregnant.

Try homemade aloe recipe, cited in the comments above. Noni is great stuff too for overall improvement of health and old age pains.

I just got back from the vet. He took out about 140 ml of fluid from the cats lungs. It was sorta red, probably high in protein, so not good news. Cougar is breathing pretty good now. I will try the essiac tea tomorrow. If anyone has other things to try please let me know. I don't know how long he will be okay.